New Wave Lebanese
Let’s call it the second generation syndrome. It flew through the Vietnamese eateries a while back (Phamish, Red Lantern etc), then the Indian (Qmin, Bayleaf, Nilgiri’s, Aki’s etc) and now it’s headed to the Middle East. We noticed it while compiling Sydney Eats ’07 (hereon SE07) – places like Sahra in Parramatta (76 Phillip St 9635 6615) where you can crunch into felafels on starched white table linen in a snazzy setting with chocolate tile mosaics. The food is a cut above most offerings at Little Beirut on Cleveland, too: Bedouin mansaf (chargrilled chook with spiced pilaf) sounds splendid. Another ModMid to slip up market is Zenobia in Leichhardt (102 Norton St 9360 4131), giving the pasta palaces a run for their money with woven textile walls, bellydancers – boys and girls (note to boy bellydancers: please wear restraining briefs) and a menu full of your old favourites and then some. Try muhamrah, a dip of shallots parsley walnuts an chilli. You’ll also get some gorgeous muhamrah at Safi in North Sydney (55 Ridge St 9954 6146), a prettily designed eatery in a tranquil location. Ex-PM Almost Falls From Grace
Seen exiting a venerable Italian restaurant in East Sydney (gosh, guess) a much-loved and by now well-lunched former Prime Minister. And when we say exiting we mean – ba-boom! He flew out the front door, missed the step and near-as-dammit hit the deck, saved by a waiting mate. A hearty (and characteristic) cackle, into the hire car and off. We thought he was on the wagon. Fair Trade in Glebe
It’s a café, a political statement and a good deal for third world farmers. It’s called The Fair Trade Coffee Company and it sells Sacred Ground coffee. Now, Sacred Ground buys its green beans from organisations that promise to pay a fair price to the coffee farmer. Fair dinkum. It’s an attractive space at the Broadway end of Glebe Point Rd (33 Glebe Point Rd 9660 0621) previously occupied by a cafe so anonymous we can’t remember it. Manager Leah Gough tells us they’re still in the process of setting up and chef Sergio Vallesi is Italian by birth and a permaculturist by trade. The menu offers everything from tamari scrambled tofu ($6.50) to Sam the Butcher’s organic bangers with organic bacon, tomato, toast and avocado on sourdough ($10.50) for brekky. They were still working on lunch when we dropped in. Worth a visit. | | A Load of Tripe
How would you like to join an exclusive club dedicated to the consumption of the first (blanket) and second (honeycomb) divisions of the stomach of a ruminant, especially a cow, although tripe may also be gathered from an ox or a calf? It’s called The Tripe Club and it’s been going gangbusters since 1988 with just under 300 members currently on the books. If you want to join, it’s easy. Turn up and eat tripe and you’re in. The next meeting is at Menzies Hotel Carrington St, Sydney, on Tuesday, September 12 at 12.30pm for a 1pm lunch. $60 for lunch and a glass of wine with each course plus a pre-lunch drink. Book by calling John Bowring on 9875 3000. or email tripeclub@intsciences.com.au. You can get onto the mailing list even if you miss the next meeting. Intermezzo Breaks Out
Since the renaissance of the GPO building, various restaurateurs have been trying to break out of the building and use the wonderful colonnades for dining. It’s finally happened. Peter Petroulas’ new Intermezzo with chef Mario Percuoco (ex Zenith on Booth) has finally made it. Four tables outside might seem like a small victory, but it’s the thin end of the wedge for the naysayers. It’ll open for lunch Monday to Friday and dinner Monday to Saturday. New Branch a Tiny Tree
Yet another new joint too late for SE07 (see below), Bonsai is obviously Japanese in name. Not so obviously in Bronte with a head chef called Daud Kendall. It’s owned by the Bruns, Sandy and her son Robert, who also own next-door Swell. On board with them are co-owner Tim Petersen and Kuni Sugiyama (ex sushi-e) and Hide Tsuboi (Sushi Fusion in Randwick) in the kitchen. 463 Bronte Rd, Ph 9386 5666. Mulligans Rides Again
Lovers of fine Irish cuisine – hey, say nothing until you’ve had the colcannon, boxty potatoes and terrific Irish stew at Mulligans – will have been devastated at the restaurant’s closure around six months ago. Rejoice! (or should that be re-Joyce?). Chef Sean and front-of-house funster, the bubbly, Blarney-stone-struck Eileen Donaghey, are back from a six-month sabbatical in Ireland. Sean tells us culinary standards in Ireland have slipped and there’s a rash of pasta and goulash. Go figure. But while Mulligans will continue with the Irish specialties we know and love, there’ll be the odd break from tradition: Mediterranean prawns went down a treat recently. They’re also doing some special nights – now this is Irish: every second Tuesday (ring and check) they have a Psychic Night with a set dinner and four psychics upstairs for after-dinner consultations. Sean assures me the word is “pyschic”. 137 Cleveland St, Chippendale, Ph 9319 5582. |
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