The waiting’s over: For years I’ve been saying, yeah, yeah, but what do you do after you’ve eaten? I mean, where are the supper clubs, the dinner dances (don’t laugh – think back to the wonderful old clubs your grandparents went to). It seems my question has been answered. Marc Kuzma, who you might remember as the chef and animateur at Vamps at Five Ways in Paddo has put together El’ Circo. What is it? Well, it’s crazy food and wonderful wine and jugglers, acrobats, cabaret artists and – where to start? You’ll be met and taken to your table by Verushka Darling, your circus mistress for the night, and then the show begins. Not on a stage, but all around you. Meanwhile, food rolls out of the kitchen, five to 10 courses over the next four hours, food like: jumbo king prawns with mango chilli jam; Daliesque sea creature enclosed in a shagpile of shredded crispy wonton; Dr V faux foie gras served in a Petri dish topped with sauternes gele. Get the picture? Now, don’t think you can ring and book just like that. El’ Circo is on every Friday night from July 13th – but it’s booked out for the next two or three weeks. So the sooner you ring 8915 1899, the sooner you’ll get a table. At Slide Lounge 41 Oxford Street, www.elcirco.com.au Do you get the feeling we’re coming out of the white picket fence era? The story behind the old man’s hat: Look, I’m sorry this is another Glebe story, but there’s a lot happening there at the moment. There’s a site on Glebe Point Road that began fitting out as a café nine, 10 months ago. Then nothing. The place is finished, looks good, lovely red-coloured walls. But nothing. Then, recently, up goes a sign: The Old Man’s Hat Organic Café Restaurant. Well, I’m intrigued. What’s the story? Story one, the long gap. Owner Jim Anagnostis tells me that two weeks into their fitout, there was a fire. Then a loooong wait until the insurance company came up with the dough to rebuild the kitchen. That happened (in the meantime they’d finished the fit) and then the sign went up. Jim tells me he’s been a cook, but this is his first solo gig. It’s organic because he’s been eating organic for a few years now and he feels better for it. It’ll be a little bit Greek, a little bit café. There’s a mezze plate – The Old Man’s Hat Platter – plus organic fish, chicken, beef and pork burgers, salads, pastas and desserts made on the spot. Story two, the name. “When I was a kid living on the island of Lesvos,” Jim told me, “every Sunday, my grandfather would go out to his farm – they lived off the produce – and he’d wear a big old hat. When he came back, the hat would be full of walnuts tomatoes, grapes, all the stuff he grew – all organic, of course – and he’d say these are for you. He’s gone now, but the drawing on the sign is him and the hat is his.” He might be gone, Jim, but not forgotten. 197 Glebe Point Road 9566 1923.
Opera with the Queen: Yes there is life in the old town in July isn’t there. At the Queen Victoria Building, they’ve devised an event called Opera Under The Dome. Every Sunday at 11am from July 1st to July 29th, rock up and hear some fine tonsil ticklers and sample some fine wine, cheese and olive oil from the Hunter Valley. What does it all mean? Search me, but it sounds like fun. Sunday 15th, for example, you can hear A Woman and Her Strings with Taryn Fiebig and Michael Black and taste wines from Margan, Krinklewood and Mt View Estate, slurp on some Pukara Olive Oil and nibble some fine cheeses from the Hunter Valley Cheese Company. What a wonderful way to spend a cold Sunday arvo. Go to www.qvb.com.au for details, ask the concierge or call 9264 9209. | | Storm the Bastille: Time to drag out the old matelot striped shirt and beret. July 14th is just around the corner – and the Frogs of Sydney are hopping to it like crazy. First up, you might like to visit the French Rendezvous website www.frenchrendezvous.com.au and check out all the events taking place – many in Sydney – leading up to the grand jour. Then you might like to think where you’re going to eat. Three suggestions. Top of the range. Bilson’s – he’s got a superb menu for autumn, $150 a head and worth every centime if you’ve got it. Radisson Plaza Hotel 27, O’Connell Street 8214 0496. 
Sadly, you can’t get into Tabou on the 14th (always booked out well ahead) but no reason why you shouldn’t go on the 13th or even the 15th, which is a Sunday night which at Tabou is cassoulet night and just $35 a head for that magnificent dish of beans and bangers. 527 Crown Street Surry Hills 9319 5682. And, alas, the same goes for Chez Pascal, which is booked out for the 14th six months in advance. But once again, there is a consolation prize. From June 14th to July 14th, there’s a 10 per cent discount for dinner at Chez Pascal – just because. 250 Rocky Point Road Ramsgate 9539 5444. And one last Bastille Day tip. My old mate Max Lake, surgeon, winemaker, wine judge and lover of fine bubbly, tipped me into a bottle of fizz that he reckons is pretty good value for money – the Deutz Marlborough. French winemaking skills and New Zealand grapes. Around $20 a bottle. And if Max says it’s good, you’d better believe it. Pop the cork as they storm the barricades. Cheese in the city: Down under the old GPO on Martin Place, you’ll find a little bit of heaven for those who love their cheese and wine. The Cheese and Cellar is run by cheese mistress Antonia Gilroy and sommelier Sue Guest. Antonia knows her cheeses and Sue knows her wine. Together, they put on a show every day that’ll have your palate pleading for more. You can mix and match your own cheese plates, $19 Australian, $29.90 European benchmarks, or go on a cheese and wine flight – three cheeses, three wines, put together by the dashing duo, $28. You can also buy cheese and wine to go, together or separately. If you’re planning a cheese plate at the end of a dinner party, consult with Antonia. Indeed, the whole GPO food offer is pretty top flight at the moment, without doubt the best food court in town.
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